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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry for the cross-post with another Clarity forum.

Yesterday I took my 2018 Clarity to a local shop to replace the factory speakers with a JL component speakers/tweeter plus install a Viofo A129 dashcam. I also put in a mini self powered subwoofer (without amp)

The resulting sound was so much worse than the factory speakers (I only replaced the front ones). The sound was unnaturally high with the treble hurting my ears. Since it was at the end of Sat, the installer told me to come back on Monday to further troubleshoot.

The Viofo dashcam was installed with the Parking Mode enabled (with the special cabling).

This morning my Clarity will not start as it gives me several errors consecutively:

Road Departure Mitigation System Problem
Hill Start Assist Problem
Brake Hold System Problem
Brake System Problem

I believe the installer probably 'killed' my Clarity due to faulty speaker electrical wiring or maybe the dashcam parking recording ate up all the electric power from the car??

I tried charging the car this morning. The charge will not start (either by the key fob or the Honda app).

The Honda dealer isn't far from my house but I'm afraid to take it there without the car installer to un-do any electrical changes he had done to my car. Even though the Clarity is still under warranty, the dealer can charge me for any repairs that's caused by external tempering.

Even though that, the car's computer may still contain history of any prior error code.

What should do on Monday morning (tomorrow)? Any idea what might have caused the problem? I disconnected the powers to the dashcam and the sub to start.
 

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2021 PHEV Touring HB, CA
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The "park mode" on the dash cam may have further weakened an already near end-of-life 12V PbA Auxiliary battery. In over 20 years of driving EVs, I've found that the vast majority of "weird" behaviors are caused by a weak or failing 12V Aux battery. Your local chain auto parts store might be able to load test your 12V battery, to be sure. Just reading it's voltage from a meter doesn't necessarily tell the whole story on car battery health.

FYI, I installed a Cobra dashcam in my '21, but it's on ignition-switched power.
 

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Can you jump start or charge the 12V aux battery?
Absolutely. Just like an ICE car, but it's a somewhat smaller capacity battery. If you're concerned, disconnect the battery ground lead before putting it on the charger. Do note that you might lose your infotainment and other settings if you disconnect the battery ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So yes EV nerd, it was the 12v battery. I was able to start and drive the car after jump starting by AAA.

It looks like the installer hooked up the subwoofer to the battery to trip up the battery...where should it have been hooked up to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The "park mode" on the dash cam may have further weakened an already near end-of-life 12V PbA Auxiliary battery. In over 20 years of driving EVs, I've found that the vast majority of "weird" behaviors are caused by a weak or failing 12V Aux battery. Your local chain auto parts store might be able to load test your 12V battery, to be sure. Just reading it's voltage from a meter doesn't necessarily tell the whole story on car battery health.

FYI, I installed a Cobra dashcam in my '21, but it's on ignition-switched power.
If you have the dash cam on the ignition-switched power, then you don't use the parking mode at all?
 

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If you have the dash cam on the ignition-switched power, then you don't use the parking mode at all?
That's correct. No parking mode on any of my dash cams, even though they support it. I made that trade-off in favor of confidently keeping my 12V PbA healthy. I've been burned a couple of times by car alarms and audio system's parasitic loads on the 12V PbA in both ICE and EVs in the past. It's a matter of personal choice, and how much you trust third-party device manufacturers specs on Standby Power consumption. I simply avoid doing so, now. I want near-absolute confidence that a vehicle will be there for me, when I need it. It's a quite conservative attitude, but I'm a belt-and-suspenders kind of guy.

You can still run even a powered sub (or anything, really) directly off of a beefy (but fused!) cable to the 12V battery. Just run it through an appropriately-sized relay, whose coil is powered by an ignition-switched circuit. Any old ignition-switched circuit will probably do, as an automotive relay coil typically doesn't require much power. This is how I've powered amps and subs in the past. I've even been known to put a large beer-can-sized capacitor at the amp and sub, too, but you'll want the fuse to be slow-blo, to handle the cap's inrush current.
 

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2018 PHEV Touring Atlanta, GA
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I think I have heard of people installing a separate rechargeable battery to power the dashcam when the car is off. Although I imagine that adds some installation complexity and cost.
 

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I think I have heard of people installing a separate rechargeable battery to power the dashcam when the car is off. Although I imagine that adds some installation complexity and cost.
That could certainly work. There's a lot of room under the dash, adjacent to the fuse panel on the driver's side. I'd bet that a lithium jump-start pack could be adapted for the application.
 

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For you dash cam, you can power from a rechargeable battery; Mine is simply plugged into the cig liter 12v socket. The parking mode will then draw from the rechargeable battery leaving you clarity battery untouched.
there are several model, just Google dash am battery.
 

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For you dash cam, you can power from a rechargeable battery; Mine is simply plugged into the cig liter 12v socket. The parking mode will then draw from the rechargeable battery leaving you clarity battery untouched.
there are several model, just Google dash am battery.
Or tap into a fuse location, and tuck the whole mess under the dash, out of sight.
 
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