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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am wanting to rotate the tires on my Clarity and was wondering if I needed rubber jack pads for the jack to prevent any damage. Anyone have an easy way of jacking one side of the car at a time? Any good pictures of the jacking points? Thanks in advance...馃
 

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Sorry for the threadsurrection!

The front and center jack point is very far behind the front end of the Clarity, so far that on YouTube one guy shows how he lifts a front (right or left) corner, then slides his jack to the front center jack point, to eventually lift the entire car up. I tried this once and it took a really long time.

I now lift at the rear and center jacking point. I use wheel chocks on one front corner (both front and back of the tire), then lift the opposite front corner using one of these (if the forum allows Amazon links). If not it is a round jack pad with a deep center groove that just fits around the side jacking points:


I move the tires where I want them to go, lower the front corner, move the wheel chocks to the opposite (front) side, then lift the other front corner. (Don't forget to loosen the lug nuts prior to lifting the wheel).

All in all it probably saves me some time from driving to the tire store, waiting for them to rotate, driving home, then getting up early the next morning to adjust the tire pressures just the way I want them. It also saves me the hassle of them asking me to buy replacement tires.....
 

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I now lift at the rear and center jacking point.
I use wheel chocks on one front corner (both front and back of the tire), then lift the opposite front corner
I didn't quite understand, do you lift at the rear and center jacking point, at the front corner, or both?

I lift from the front corner using a floor jack, let's say right front, and I found that if I raise it high enough the right rear tire comes off the ground also. I saw a photo someone posted lifting their Clarity this way and I decided to give it a try. While I have one side lifted I rotate the tires on that side front to back. I lower the side and then lift the other side and rotate front to back. Ideally you are supposed to rotate with a cross pattern, but it's more time consuming to do a cross rotation at home, you either have to put the entire car onto jack stands (i.e. all wheels off the ground), or else use a spare tire as a temporarily placeholder as you move wheels around. I don't think cross rotation adds that much more benefit, maybe a little but certainly not as much benefit as you get doing front to back rotation.
 

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Yes my apologies for being unclear. I use one jack to lift the rear center point which raises the two rear wheels off the ground. I chock one front corner (say front left). I take a 2nd jack and now lift the front right corner. (Three wheels are now off the ground.) I then cross rotate as I please. Last tire rotation was an X, so I swapped front right with rear left. I pulled the rear right tire and moved it to the front left (waiting for me to lift the front left corner). With the front right complete (and rear left complete) I lower the front right corner. Swap the chocks to the opposite side (front right) and lift the front left. I proceed to swap front left to rear right and put the rear right tire on the front left. Then I can lower both jacks.

It takes a total of three lifts, (you need 2 jacks), but not too bad.

Rear center
Front right then lower
Front left
Lower vehicle
 

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America's Tire does rear cross to front. So that would be:

Lift rear center point. Pull off rear wheels and cross them to the opposite side in front.

RR --> FL (front wheels still on the ground)
RL --> FR (front wheels still on the ground)
Chock front left wheel, lift front right corner.
Remove FR wheel move it to the back Right Rear position and install.
Install the old (RL) onto Front Right position.
Lower front right corner, move chocks to that side, jack up front left.
Remove FL tire and move it back to Rear Left position.
There is only one tire left to put back on the Front Left.
Lower vehicle.
 

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Hi to all! New owner of a 2018 Touring. I am going put the entire car on jack stands tomorrow so I can take all four wheels in for refurbishment. I am thinking, based on the great advice herein, that I will loosen all lug nuts and then raise the rear of the car (chalk the front wheels) using the center jacking point, place jack stands at the outer jacking points, then raise the front of the car at the center jacking point and place stands at the outer front jacking points. Probably leave the floor jack in place. The car will sit on the stands for about a week. Anyone see a fatal flaw in my approach? Thanks for all of the good information. I am enjoying the Clarity. It seems to be "stuck" in sport mode, though. Don't know... I like the added control sport mode gives over the regen braking. Ireally like driving on the battery while my Escalade sits in repose in the shop garage. Yay! No gas burned; no carbon emitted. That is the goal.
 

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No fatal flaws. Questions/Concerns:

Do you have a low profile long reach jack that reaches the front center jacking point? (I honestly don't. It is far in. Try reaching it first. If you have the back end up the front will be even lower and it will be even harder to reach).

Did you find a refurbisher that doesn't permanently remove the noise cancelling inserts to repair the wheels? The wheels have black noise cancelling inserts on the barrel. I haven't found a refurbisher yet that will directly tell me they won't take them off. Nor have I found a way to replace the black inserts.
 

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I use one jack to lift the rear center point which raises the two rear wheels off the ground. I chock one front corner (say front left). I take a 2nd jack and now lift the front right corner. (Three wheels are now off the ground.)
That doesn't sound very safe having the car balancing on one wheel and two floor jacks. I think it would be better to stick with the standard procedure of putting the car onto jack stands. Although I don't know of a good or safe way to get the Clarity completely onto jack stands. What might work is to lift the front left, then place some wooden blocks under the front left wheel and lower it back down. Repeat on the right side. The two front tires will now be sitting on wooden blocks and maybe you can now reach the front center lift point. Unless it's too far back and the jack isn't long enough.

Again, cross rotation is usually only marginally helpful. Yes theoretically it can benefit, so in a tire shop where the car is already on a lift there is no reason not to cross rotate since it's not any harder to do. But when doing DIY at home the only practical way to do cross rotation is using a spare tire that can be put in place temporarily. I.e. replace the left rear with the spare, lower the car, then lift the front right and put the former left rear wheel onto the front right, lower the car, then replace the spare on the left rear with the former front right wheel. Takes a lot of lifts but it's safe to do. I did that a couple of times with my Prius but decided it's too much trouble so after that I just rotated on one side.
 

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Hi to all! New owner of a 2018 Touring. I am going put the entire car on jack stands tomorrow so I can take all four wheels in for refurbishment. I am thinking, based on the great advice herein, that I will loosen all lug nuts and then raise the rear of the car (chalk the front wheels) using the center jacking point, place jack stands at the outer jacking points, then raise the front of the car at the center jacking point and place stands at the outer front jacking points. Probably leave the floor jack in place. The car will sit on the stands for about a week. Anyone see a fatal flaw in my approach? Thanks for all of the good information. I am enjoying the Clarity. It seems to be "stuck" in sport mode, though. Don't know... I like the added control sport mode gives over the regen braking. Ireally like driving on the battery while my Escalade sits in repose in the shop garage. Yay! No gas burned; no carbon emitted. That is the goal.
As jzchen mentioned you would probably not be able to reach the front center jack point. Maybe you could take in two wheels at a time for refurbishment? Well at least the rear can be put on jack stands then you could take in the two rear wheels. The front wheels will still be a challenge if you can't get the front of the car onto jack stands. What you might be able to do is after the rear wheels are refurbished, you could put them back on, lower the car back down, then lift the front left side, lift it high enough to get the left rear wheel off of the ground also, then swap the front and rear wheels. Lower it back down, repeat on the right side. Now the refurbed wheels will be on the front and the scuffed wheels will be on the rear. Then you can jack up the rear, put it on jack stands and remove those wheels and take them in.
 

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You can probably get to the front center point (using two jacks) one lift a front corner and then slide the other to the center and lift the front center point. Then remove the side one and put jack stands front left and right. I did that once.

If you're concerned about safety. You could lift one side as you mention by lifting one corner high enough that the two wheels lift off the ground. Rotate front <--> back. Do the other side. Then lift the rear center and swap left <--> right to cross the front to the back.
It's more work as you mount the rear wheels twice, but it's no different than what you're doing lifting one whole side with one jack.

For whatever reason the front right tire wears quickest on ours, at least last tire rotation. The opposite rear left tire gets the least wear. Front left is second worse and rear right is 3rd. So X was my pattern.
 

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Thanks for the timely and constructive suggestions. Very much appreciated! I ducked under the car a moment ago and you are right about the front center jacking point. I have a good floor jack, but pretty sure the handle is not long enough. The challenge now is that the two really bad wheels are on the front of the car. My approach now, based on your collective suggestions, is to jack the car using one of the front side jacking points and see how it turns out. If both wheels are high enough, I can rotate front to rear and then repeat on the other side. Then jack up the rear of the car and take both rear wheels (now the really bad ones) into the shop. Then repeat when I get the refurbed wheels back and do it again. One challenge I am facing is the refurb shop is over an hour away, which complicates matters a bit. I had hoped to take in all four wheels at once to reduce the running back and forth as well as the down time on the Honda. No compromises on safety, though. If in doubt, simplify and break the task down into safe and doable components.
 

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Sorry for the repeat but does your wheel repair person not damage/remove the noise cancelling insert? If so please share...

One thing is the car drives nice and some serious engineering went into those Honda wheels, made by Enkei for Honda:

 

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That is fascinating! I was not aware until you brought it up. Pretty sure the inserts will have to be removed, as they powder coat the wheels. I will check with them and let you know how the handle the inserts. Thanks for the link as well. Very informative. This is our second Honda (we traded a wonderful 2012 Odyssey Touring Elite in on a Highlander Hybrid last summer) and I am continually impressed by the thoughtfulness and engineering in both of them. Now off to get some tools out and see about those wheels.
 

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A-Condition Wheel Service Inc. <[email protected]> in Prior Lake, MN writes, "We have to remove them before they go in the stripping tank and we will reinstall them after the whole process is complete." Seems good to me. I am taking two wheels in today. Getting the car on jack stands all the way around is difficult, if not impossible with my jacks and stands.
 

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Please try to verify they can remove and replace them without destroying them. This is the first I heard one that gave a direct answer that they can be saved. (I tried the local Wheels America and Wheel Collision Center in PA. The two big ones I would see in the car magazines. They both said removed and not replaced). I asked on Yelp and several local companies just answered with send a picture of the wheels. No response about the inserts.
 

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@2002 Regarding the one wheel pirouette these are the wheel chocks I used, one front and one back. I notice Harbor Freight sells an even bigger size one but not sure it will fit..


Even with our sloped driveway the car shifted a little when lifted on one of the sides but I felt comfortable as I was not getting underneath.....
 

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Great suggestion! My old (like 25 years?) yellow plastic wheel chocks are not doing it anymore. Clearly a trip to Harber Freight is in order. There is one about 15 minutes away. Right now, the Clarity is jacked high on its rear center jacking point (jack stands are in place as a safety measure) in my shop with some very effective organic wheel chocks on the front wheels holding it in place. Pieces of split oak firewood actually work pretty well, but they are heavy, bulky, and they splinter on the shop floor. I am learning about Hondas, which is really great. The wheel silencers, which the wheel refinisher promised again will be replaced, the aerodynamic hubcaps, 80 lbs. for torquing the lug nuts (most common seems to be 100 lbs. with my Escalade at 150 lbs.), those little plastic washers or spacers on each lug nut (no idea what purpose they serve, but I am sure it is important), and all of the unseen, or hidden in plain sight, but so important high tech that is built in. Pretty cool.
 

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@2002 Regarding the one wheel pirouette these are the wheel chocks I used, one front and one back. I notice Harbor Freight sells an even bigger size one but not sure it will fit..

Even with our sloped driveway the car shifted a little when lifted on one of the sides but I felt comfortable as I was not getting underneath.....
Wheel chocks will stop front to back movement but I don't think they would necessarily help in a situation with two jacks if one of them fails, because there could be sideways motion that the chocks on the one wheel that is remaining on the ground would be unable to stop.

Using only one jack the car will always fall straight down if the jack fails. For example if jacking from the rear center, if the jack fails the rear will drop straight down. There could in theory be a tendency for it to roll forward or backward as it falls but the front wheel chocks should keep that from happening. Lifting from one of the side jacking points is similar, if the jack fails the car will fall straight down.

However if using two jacks, one in the rear and one up front on one side, with only one tire remaining on the ground, if one jack fails, as that side of the car comes down there will possibly be a sideways motion to the car which could cause the other jack to tip over. If the car comes down with a sideways motion that would be very dangerous for anyone nearby even if they are not directly underneath the car.

How likely is this? I don't know. But it seems better to eliminate the possibility of an accident by using a safer method even if it takes longer.

I still think the best solution might be to use wood blocks as I suggested earlier. Since you probably wouldn't need to raise the front end a whole lot to get the jack under there you could probably make a simple platform by laying out a thick piece of plywood or several pieces of 2x4 lumber under each tire, and add more layers if needed to get it as high as you need it. Of course you need to jack up the front tires to get the platforms setup underneath them, you would do this by jacking up each front side one at a time.

With both front tires now resting on the wood platforms you can now lift the front of the car using the front center lifting point, that will allow you to place jack stands at the side lift points. Then lower the car onto the jack stands. You could probably leave the wood platforms in place underneath the tires as long as the tires don't come back down onto them when you lower the front end onto the jack stands. If they do you might have to remove one or more layers of the platform. Once the front end is sitting on jack stands then you can lift the back of the car and place jack stands in the rear.

To bring the car back down do all of this in reverse. Lift the rear and remove the jack stands. Then lift the front of the car from the center lift point and remove the jack stands, and put the wood platforms back into place if you had to remove them earlier. Then lower the front wheels onto the wood platforms. Then lift each front side one at a time to remove the wood platforms. It's a lot of steps but it should be a safer way to do it.
 
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