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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got this OBD2 sensor:

Vgate iCar Pro Bluetooth 4.0 (BLE) OBD2 Fault Code Reader OBDII Code Scanner Car Check Engine Light for iOS/Android

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGB4873/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I pair it successfully using standard Bluetooth with my Android phone and it works fine for the Clarity with Car Scanner from the Play Store. I can even shut the car off and reconnect if for some time. But then if I want to use it after the car has been shut off for a longer time, I have to disconnect and re-insert the scanner, pair it and it will link again successfully. Other posts about Honda's say the OBD2 is on all the time.

BTW, I drive my battery hard (not the car ;^)). I have a commute where I go from 100% to 2 bars, ICE takes over for the last few miles. I charge at work and do the same on the way home. Car Scanner shows I have about 15% degradation so far at 45,000 miles.

Is there a better scanner or a way to keep the OBD2 port alive?

TIA,

Pat
 

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The default is that it goes to sleep after a period of time. Unfortunately there is something about how the Clarity uses OBD-II that keeps it from waking up the device when the car is turned on, so you have to unplug it and plug it back in each time. Some people have added an OBD-II extension cable to make that easier to do.

However I think I remember hearing that there is a way to turn off the sleep feature by sending some commands via the Car Scanner app's terminal mode (located in settings). Might be able to get the specifics of what commands are needed from Vgate, assuming that they have some type of support or online information. If you find out anything please let us know.

Disabling the sleep feature means that there will be a continuous drain on the OBD-II port, but it's probably not that much and probably not a problem if the car is driven regularly. Of course if you went on vacation or something you could simply unplug it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The default is that it goes to sleep after a period of time. Unfortunately there is something about how the Clarity uses OBD-II that keeps it from waking up the device when the car is turned on, so you have to unplug it and plug it back in each time. Some people have added an OBD-II extension cable to make that easier to do.

However I think I remember hearing that there is a way to turn off the sleep feature by sending some commands via the Car Scanner app's terminal mode (located in settings). Might be able to get the specifics of what commands are needed from Vgate, assuming that they have some type of support or online information. If you find out anything please let us know.

Disabling the sleep feature means that there will be a continuous drain on the OBD-II port, but it's probably not that much and probably not a problem if the car is driven regularly. Of course if you went on vacation or something you could simply unplug it.
Thanks, I thought it might be something like that wrt the Clarity. I guess a different scanner would probably do the same thing then. I'll wait and see if anyone offers up the specific commands.

Pat
 

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Thanks! So it looks like the commands are:

Disable sleep

">ATPP 0E SV 7A"
OK
">ATPP 0E ON"
OK
">ATZ"
ELM327 v2.2

Enable sleep
">ATPP 0E SV FA"
OK
">ATPP 0E ON"
OK
">ATZ"
ELM327 v2.2

Ignore the quotation marks in the above, I had to use them because otherwise the forum software turns them into quotes like this:

ATPP 0E SV 7A
Also in the link that you provided the first line of the enable section had OE, I assume it should be 0E so I changed it here.

I haven't tried it yet, if these commands work for you let us know, and maybe you can toss in the steps for using terminal mode although I assume it is fairly straightforward but not everyone is used to doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks! So it looks like the commands are:

Disable sleep

">ATPP 0E SV 7A"
OK
">ATPP 0E ON"
OK
">ATZ"
ELM327 v2.2

Enable sleep
">ATPP 0E SV FA"
OK
">ATPP 0E ON"
OK
">ATZ"
ELM327 v2.2

Ignore the quotation marks in the above, I had to use them because otherwise the forum software turns them into quotes like this:



Also in the link that you provided the first line of the enable section had OE, I assume it should be 0E so I changed it here.

I haven't tried it yet, if these commands work for you let us know, and maybe you can toss in the steps for using terminal mode although I assume it is fairly straightforward but not everyone is used to doing that.
2002 - I did try it, it did work and it is, in fact, 0E not OE. ;^)

The car sat overnight, the red light from the adapter was still on this morning and it successfully connected after I started the Clarity without having to remove and replace the Vgate.

So, to enter these commands in Car Scanner after starting the Car Scanner program:

1. From the main screen go to Settings
2. From Settings select Terminal.
3. In Terminal enter the strings, one by one as shown above and hit the Send at the bottom of the screen
4. After each command is sent, the system will send an "OK" - if it doesn't send an OK, a command didn't work - check your typing
5. When done with these commands return to the previous Settings screen and you are done
6. Check after an hour or so to see if the red light on the Vgate is still on and that is the indication that it is not shutting off

NOTE: this will be a new (small) drain on the battery - I am not sure if this drains the 12V battery or if it comes from the main battery bank. I'm also not sure how the 12V gets charged (from the EV battery - that is what I assume). You might want to watch this if you are not plugged in for a long period of time.
 

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NOTE: this will be a new (small) drain on the battery - I am not sure if this drains the 12V battery or if it comes from the main battery bank. I'm also not sure how the 12V gets charged (from the EV battery - that is what I assume). You might want to watch this if you are not plugged in for a long period of time.
Great write-up! This is very helpful.

It will definitely drain from the 12V if the car is not on. Think of it like a regular car, if the car isn't on then any electrical is coming from the 12V.

You are correct the 12V battery is charged from the HV battery (sometimes called the traction battery). However the HV system is only energized when the car is in READY mode. If the instrument panel is lighted but it does not say READY then you are in either Accessory mode or ON mode. If you press the power button without stepping on the brake it goes into Accessory mode (runs the radio that's about it). Press the power button again without stepping on the brake and it goes into ON mode (power windows, instrument panel display, the fan will run but no heat or AC). Both Accessory mode and ON mode drain the 12V battery, and there's really no reason to use them other than for something really quick like raising the windows. If electrical will be used for any length of time it's better to go to READY mode so that electrical power will come from the HV battery which can handle the drain much better than the 12V.

Whenever the car is in READY mode the 12V battery will be charged if needed. You don't even have to be driving, the car can just be sitting there in READY mode and it will charge the 12V.

Actually there is another time that the HV system is energized and that's during charging. The HV battery will charge the 12V battery during this time if needed. Note that just plugging in will not cause the 12V battery to be charged, you have to be actively charging.

Well okay one more exception, when running remote climate the HV system is active, because both the heater and the AC compressor run off of the HV battery. I am not sure but I think the 12V battery gets charged during remote climate. Interesting sidenote, the USB ports provide power when running remote climate.

All of the above means that your OBD-II drain is probably not going to be a big deal. Unless you go out of town for an extended period, even if the car is plugged in during that time the 12V will not be charged, unless you do some scheduled HV battery charging during that time.
 

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Great write-up! This is very helpful.

It will definitely drain from the 12V if the car is not on. Think of it like a regular car, if the car isn't on then any electrical is coming from the 12V.

You are correct the 12V battery is charged from the HV battery (sometimes called the traction battery). However the HV system is only energized when the car is in READY mode. If the instrument panel is lighted but it does not say READY then you are in either Accessory mode or ON mode. If you press the power button without stepping on the brake it goes into Accessory mode (runs the radio that's about it). Press the power button again without stepping on the brake and it goes into ON mode (power windows, instrument panel display, the fan will run but no heat or AC). Both Accessory mode and ON mode drain the 12V battery, and there's really no reason to use them other than for something really quick like raising the windows. If electrical will be used for any length of time it's better to go to READY mode so that electrical power will come from the HV battery which can handle the drain much better than the 12V.

Whenever the car is in READY mode the 12V battery will be charged if needed. You don't even have to be driving, the car can just be sitting there in READY mode and it will charge the 12V.

Actually there is another time that the HV system is energized and that's during charging. The HV battery will charge the 12V battery during this time if needed. Note that just plugging in will not cause the 12V battery to be charged, you have to be actively charging.

Well okay one more exception, when running remote climate the HV system is active, because both the heater and the AC compressor run off of the HV battery. I am not sure but I think the 12V battery gets charged during remote climate. Interesting sidenote, the USB ports provide power when running remote climate.

All of the above means that your OBD-II drain is probably not going to be a big deal. Unless you go out of town for an extended period, even if the car is plugged in during that time the 12V will not be charged, unless you do some scheduled HV battery charging during that time.
Do you have any idea what the maximum power capacity is of the DC-DC from the traction pack to the aux battery in the Clarity PHEV? In my Bolt, it's about 1600W, which means I can pull about 1kW from my inverter hooked to the aux battery, and the DC-DC can keep up. I had to do an "experiment" to check this, and was wondering if anybody had already done the exercise in the Clarity.
 

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I have the ODB plugged in all the time and disabled the standby feature. I went on a vacation for 3 weeks, and the 12V was dead measuring around 2.0V. I had to boost charge a little bit from wife's car and then my 12V charger was able to recognize it as a 12V battery and start charging it. So just a warning, if you are away more than a week, you might want to unplug it. I bought a Li-Ion jump starter kit just in case I experience another dead 12V battery because it's not fun. Can't even open the charging lid (there is a manual release near the ODB adapter plug area), but then since the computer is dead, it can't accept any HV charge from an EVSE. So you really have to have the 12V.
On another note, the HV battery held it's charge just fine at around 60% for those 3 weeks.
 

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I have the ODB plugged in all the time and disabled the standby feature. I went on a vacation for 3 weeks, and the 12V was dead measuring around 2.0V. I had to boost charge a little bit from wife's car and then my 12V charger was able to recognize it as a 12V battery and start charging it. So just a warning, if you are away more than a week, you might want to unplug it. I bought a Li-Ion jump starter kit just in case I experience another dead 12V battery because it's not fun. Can't even open the charging lid (there is a manual release near the ODB adapter plug area), but then since the computer is dead, it can't accept any HV charge from an EVSE. So you really have to have the 12V.
On another note, the HV battery held it's charge just fine at around 60% for those 3 weeks.
Not sure if that means the ODB is using a lot of power, or if the 12V was already weak. But I suspect also that the Clarity uses more power when turned off than typical because stories of dead batteries after a week or two of not driving is pretty common. Again I suspect those are probably weak batteries to begin with, but apparently whatever power draw the Clarity has accelerates the demise when the car isn't driven. What I do now when I go out of town is have the HV battery with a partial charge then I have the schedule timer set to charge thirty minutes a day, which should be enough to keep the 12V topped up. Need to use the level 1 charger for this so that you have more charging time. For a three week trip you would probably want to start with the HV battery near 0, that gives you about twelve hours of charging to spread out over twenty-one days, which is about thirty minutes per day. Of course could also use a battery tender while out of town but not everyone has one of those. I have one but it only takes a minute to set a charge schedule so I just do that.

You probably know this already but in case you need to get into the trunk when the battery is dead there is a lock behind the left rear passenger headrest, you use the emergency key that is located in the fob to unlock it.
 

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Not sure if that means the ODB is using a lot of power, or if the 12V was already weak. But I suspect also that the Clarity uses more power when turned off than typical because stories of dead batteries after a week or two of not driving is pretty common. Again I suspect those are probably weak batteries to begin with, but apparently whatever power draw the Clarity has accelerates the demise when the car isn't driven. What I do now when I go out of town is have the HV battery with a partial charge then I have the schedule timer set to charge thirty minutes a day, which should be enough to keep the 12V topped up. Need to use the level 1 charger for this so that you have more charging time. For a three week trip you would probably want to start with the HV battery near 0, that gives you about twelve hours of charging to spread out over twenty-one days, which is about thirty minutes per day. Of course could also use a battery tender while out of town but not everyone has one of those. I have one but it only takes a minute to set a charge schedule so I just do that.

You probably know this already but in case you need to get into the trunk when the battery is dead there is a lock behind the left rear passenger headrest, you use the emergency key that is located in the fob to unlock it.
I've used little 12" x 6" solar panels to keep the 12V battery happy in ICE vehicles, for decades. The panel sits on the dash, and plugs into the cigarette lighter (I guess we don't call them that any more?). You just have to make sure that the cigarette lighter socket is connected to the battery, when the vehicle is off.

Here's an example:


I make no claim about its suitability to the Clarity.
 
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