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Intermittent charging

832 Views 8 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  wells9933
I have had my 2018 Clarity for almost 4 years with no issues whatsoever. Recently, it stops charging on OEM LV1 (Intermittent charging). The Dealer uploaded the 18-097, same thing happened. Then they gave me a new charging chord and it keeps doing the same thing. Sometimes it stops after a few minutes and other times it’s after a few hours. Today it was at the dealer and it did not stop charging. We got home and it’s stopped charging twice in one hour. We tried two different outlets in the garage and experience the same problem. Has anyone had this issue or have any clues as what it could be?
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I have had my 2018 Clarity for almost 4 years with no issues whatsoever. Recently, it stops charging on OEM LV1 (Intermittent charging). The Dealer uploaded the 18-097, same thing happened. Then they gave me a new charging chord and it keeps doing the same thing. Sometimes it stops after a few minutes and other times it’s after a few hours. Today it was at the dealer and it did not stop charging. We got home and it’s stopped charging twice in one hour. We tried two different outlets in the garage and experience the same problem. Has anyone had this issue or have any clues as what it could be?
Is the outlet and/or plug overheating? If there's a bad electrical connection at the receptacle, the EVSE might shut down. IIRC, there's a thermal switch in the OEM EVSE plug that's intended to protect against a bad-connection-caused fire. A bad connection can be caused by an old and/or corroded receptacle, or bad wire connections to it. If the two outlets in the garage are the same (elderly) age, they could both be equally bad. Might require an outlet replacement. If that's the issue, consider replacing with a high-quality commercial grade duplex outlet, and make certain the wire connections to the receptacle are rock-solid, and properly pigtailed.

Edit to add: Make sure that in addition to the receptacle you use, all of the receptacles upstream (from the outlet you are using to the breaker panel) are in good condition, and pigtailed. By pigtailing upstream fixtures, you're not depending on possible bad connections, with the charge current flowing through old fixtures. If you don't know what pigtailing is, you might want to engage the services of a licensed electrician.
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Based on the dealer's L2 charger working, your outlet seems suspect.

Why not upgrade your home charging port with a L2 (240V) ?

It does not draw a lot and you can use an inexpensive 240V NEMA 14-50 outlet up to 30A.
It does not draw a lot and you can use an inexpensive 240V NEMA 14-50 outlet up to 30A.
More bad electrical advice from @4sallypat
You can never install a 14-50 on a 30A circuit - and choosing the inexpensive variety is questionable for an EVSE (continuous loads).
A 14-50 can be installed on 40 or 50A circuits only. If you install it on a 40A circuit, you must use it with an EVSE that draws 32A max (units with adjustable amperages do not meet code). %50A circuits can support 40A EVSEs (again, non adjustable to meet code).
The EVSE also must be mounted using a bracket/method that allows for tool free removal.
"%0A circuits can support 40A EVSEs (again, non adjustable to meet code)."

Typo alert! I think you hit an errant shift key. That should be 50A, not %0A.
Thx - fixed it
"You can never install a 14-50 on a 30A circuit"

NEC 2017: 210.21(B)(1) - "a single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating not less than that of the branch circuit."

Nothing in the code that says you can't have a 14-50 receptacle on a 30A dedicated circuit.

I do not think it is a good practice however, if you sell the house and a new owner tried to use a large appliance that requires more than 30A the breaker will trip.

I would label the receptacle 30A only.
More bad electrical advice from @4sallypat
A 14-50 can be installed on 40 or 50A circuits only. If you install it on a 40A circuit, you must use it with an EVSE that draws 32A max (units with adjustable amperages do not meet code). %50A circuits can support 40A EVSEs (again, non adjustable to meet code).
Which is unnecessarily restrictive. When you think about the way an EVSE works, the EVSE itself is not what draws the current. The vehicle draws the current. What’s the difference between an EVSE with adjustable amperages and one that does not? The fixed amperage unit merely has a fixed duty cycle square wave signal that gets sent to the vehicle while the adjustable one can be changed. If the code denies the use of adjustable amperage units then the same standards body should also strongly discourage the manufacture of hair dryers that can operate on either 120 or 240VAC.
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