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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone else having issues with much lower mileage than expected? I have a new to me 2018 Clarity with around 50K miles. I'm only getting 25 miles per full charge. Anyone else having these issues? Any suggestions would be welcome on how to deal with this. My dealer is being of no help whatsoever.
 

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Without more details, not much specific advice can be offered.
All EVs have reduced range in colder weather. Where you live and ambient temps could be the sole cause and completely normal. Lots of discussion all over the internet if you search for "EVs and cold weather" or something similar.

Short answer is in cold weather, batteries have less capacity (and therefore less range), and using the HV battery for heating further impacts that.

To help mitigate - precondition while plugged in (preferably [email protected]/240V) and using the seat heaters is more efficient as it allows for not heating the cabin to as high a temperature.

"Cold" is relative and 50 degrees will have impact. The lower the temps, the greater the impact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Without more details, not much specific advice can be offered.
All EVs have reduced range in colder weather. Where you live and ambient temps could be the sole cause and completely normal. Lots of discussion all over the internet if you search for "EVs and cold weather" or something similar.

Short answer is in cold weather, batteries have less capacity (and therefore less range), and using the HV battery for heating further impacts that.

To help mitigate - precondition while plugged in (preferably [email protected]/240V) and using the seat heaters is more efficient as it allows for not heating the cabin to as high a temperature.

"Cold" is relative and 50 degrees will have impact. The lower the temps, the greater the impact.
Thanks for the response, Gary. We've been having quite warm weather. This is an issue that's happening even when temps are 60ish degrees. I was a Chevy Volt owner for a number of years, and have gotten used to the drop in EV mileage in Michigan winters as well preconditioning the car in cold weather. A drop of approx 20% of range was pretty normal for the Volt. This is a drop of nearly 50% of range, though, and seems like a car specific issue.

What other details would be helpful to determine what's going on?

Cheers,
Rahim
 

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Thanks for the response, Gary. We've been having quite warm weather. This is an issue that's happening even when temps are 60ish degrees. I was a Chevy Volt owner for a number of years, and have gotten used to the drop in EV mileage in Michigan winters as well preconditioning the car in cold weather. A drop of approx 20% of range was pretty normal for the Volt. This is a drop of nearly 50% of range, though, and seems like a car specific issue.

What other details would be helpful to determine what's going on?

Cheers,
Rahim
Well warm weather in your opinion might be way different to others.
I thought MI is a northern state and gets pretty cold and frigid this time of year ?

Where I live (desert southwest), 60 degrees is very cold for us.
We are used to 70-110 degree weather so our 2018 gets on average of over 50 miles (averaged all year).

In addition to weather and use of cabin heating, your driving habits determine the "guess o meter" range, so it would be helpful if you monitor how you drive over a week's time as the range per charge will vary.

Case in point:
My wife drives the car like it's a sports car, snapping the accelerator (jack rabbit starts), driving with pedal to the floor (starts up ICE engine), Sport mode, cabin heating or cooling all the time, never uses the regen paddles, and brakes hard. She gets 35-45 miles per charge.

I drive like an old man - very gradual starts, coasting, regen paddles, no cabin heat/cooling, EV ECO mode only and brakes very gently to regen as much as possible. I get 50-65 miles per charge.
 

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Thanks for the response, Gary. We've been having quite warm weather. This is an issue that's happening even when temps are 60ish degrees. I was a Chevy Volt owner for a number of years, and have gotten used to the drop in EV mileage in Michigan winters as well preconditioning the car in cold weather. A drop of approx 20% of range was pretty normal for the Volt. This is a drop of nearly 50% of range, though, and seems like a car specific issue.

What other details would be helpful to determine what's going on?

Cheers,
Rahim
Driving at high speeds also reduces EV range, but I assume that you know that as a former Volt owner.

When you say you are getting 25 miles per full charge, is that the estimate that it gives you after a full charge, or is that based on actual odometer reading?

With normal driving and temperatures in the 60's, 25 miles actual range does seem extremely low. I think you should check the battery capacity. This can be done at the dealer, but you can also check it yourself with an inexpensive Bluetooth OBD-II reader and free app software. Details how to do that can be found in this thread:


The Bluetooth OBD-II reader mentioned in the thread iCar Vgate Pro is not expensive, and while other readers may work, apparently not all of them do so it's recommended to get that specific reader just to be sure.

As indicated in that thread, a new battery will have a capacity of 55 Ah. A Honda document indicates that the battery will be replaced under warranty if the capacity is below 36.6 Ah, which is a 33% reduction in capacity. If you are really only getting 25 miles of EV range under normal driving conditions you would seem to be well into that threshold. Which would be a first, I have never heard of that happening, which is why we are asking all of these questions.

Although the dealer can do the capacity check also, because of the apparent severity of your situation I recommend first getting the reading yourself so that you won't be relying on the dealer. If the capacity on the app shows less than 36.6 Ah then get a screenshot of that. In that case you would then go to the dealer and ask them to do a capacity check using their system, and assuming they get the same result then insist on getting a physical printout from them, or at least a screenshot from them emailed to you. The reason I am being adamant about this is that the capacity reading in the Clarity can apparently be reset to 55 Ah, although we don't know how, and it might take some time for it to drop back down to the actual reading. So you want documentation of the reading when it is available. If the capacity reading is below 36.6 Ah then you would pursue warranty replacement of the battery.
 

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Is the 25 miles the range estimate or what you're actually getting (battery SOC from full to 2 bars)?
 
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Anyone else having issues with much lower mileage than expected? I have a new to me 2018 Clarity with around 50K miles. I'm only getting 25 miles per full charge. Anyone else having these issues? Any suggestions would be welcome on how to deal with this. My dealer is being of no help whatsoever.


I live in Ontario, Canada, where it's been hovering around zero degrees for a while now. I'm getting 40 - 45 km to a charge right now, which is 25-28 miles. I've only had the car for a couple of months but when I got it I was getting 65 km to a charge. I've just chalked it up to the colder weather.
 

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I live in Ontario, Canada, where it's been hovering around zero degrees for a while now. I'm getting 40 - 45 km to a charge right now, which is 25-28 miles. I've only had the car for a couple of months but when I got it I was getting 65 km to a charge. I've just chalked it up to the colder weather.
This is about right for cold weather.
 
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Well warm weather in your opinion might be way different to others.
I thought MI is a northern state and gets pretty cold and frigid this time of year ?

Where I live (desert southwest), 60 degrees is very cold for us.
We are used to 70-110 degree weather so our 2018 gets on average of over 50 miles (averaged all year).

In addition to weather and use of cabin heating, your driving habits determine the "guess o meter" range, so it would be helpful if you monitor how you drive over a week's time as the range per charge will vary.

Case in point:
My wife drives the car like it's a sports car, snapping the accelerator (jack rabbit starts), driving with pedal to the floor (starts up ICE engine), Sport mode, cabin heating or cooling all the time, never uses the regen paddles, and brakes hard. She gets 35-45 miles per charge.

I drive like an old man - very gradual starts, coasting, regen paddles, no cabin heat/cooling, EV ECO mode only and brakes very gently to regen as much as possible. I get 50-65 miles per charge.
4sallypat: Can you give us a 1-2 sentence guide to using the regen (+ and -) paddles? I've read the manual and still am afraid to pull on those paddles. I don't understand what to do with them.
 

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4sallypat: Can you give us a 1-2 sentence guide to using the regen (+ and -) paddles? I've read the manual and still am afraid to pull on those paddles. I don't understand what to do with them.
Don’t be afraid. You can’t hurt anything. Next time you let your foot off the gas while coasting to a stop, tap on the left paddle one or more times and you’ll understand how it works. I don’t use the right paddle much though.
 

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Don’t be afraid. You can’t hurt anything. Next time you let your foot off the gas while coasting to a stop, tap on the left paddle one or more times and you’ll understand how it works. I don’t use the right paddle much though.
I use the left paddle when I slowing for a red light. If slowing too fast, you can use the right paddle to release; feels like downshifting. If in cruise control, you must cancel that first. Of course adaptive cruise will slow-stop too BUT it doesn’t see the stopped cars until uncomfortably close.
 

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If in cruise control, you must cancel that first.
You don't have to cancel it first, but if you pull the regen paddle while cruise is still activated it gives you this loud annoying warning sound. I guess they feel the need to let you know that cruise is now turned off. Yeah that effectively forces you to cancel cruise first just to avoid that annoying sound. It's why I rarely use the paddles. I use cruise all the time even on 45 mph streets if it's going to be a mile or more. As I approach a red light I would like to make one or two pulls on the paddle to start a slow deceleration and have that action cancel cruise at the same time, but I just can't stand that stupid warning. So I just press the cancel cruise button and let it start coasting since that gives you a little bit of regen anyway, and then use the brake pedal as needed. I looked all through the settings and it appears there is no way to turn off that warning sound.

One time I had a passenger in the car when that warning sounded and they became visibly concerned and said "What's that?" The loud warning made them think that some type of major malfunction had occurred and the car was about to die. Explaining what the warning sound was about was nearly impossible (first you have to explain regen, then the paddles, etc.)
 

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4sallypat: Can you give us a 1-2 sentence guide to using the regen (+ and -) paddles? I've read the manual and still am afraid to pull on those paddles. I don't understand what to do with them.
You'll need to do this when the battery isn't completely full. When the battery is full, regen doesn't have a convenient place to shove the recovered energy, so the Clarity does some interesting stuff to use it up, and you won't get a good feel for what increased regen does. So, drive it for a couple of miles before playing with the paddles, or you could get some confusing results. IIRC, the little chevrons on the DIC will flash to tell you there's not enough room in the battery for the level of regen you've selected.

Do note that in modes other than "Sport", the increased regen you command with the left paddle will turn itself off the next time you stop. One feature of the Sport mode is that the increased regen commanded by the left paddle doesn't get turned off the next time you stop and start again, and you can depend on an effect somewhat akin to compression braking in a manual transmission car (if max regen is commanded), until you command it to turn off. Around town, after driving a couple of miles, I put my Clarity in Sport mode, and engage maximum regen using the left paddle. That's my default driving mode in the 'burbs. On the highway, I use LKA and ACC. Turning on ACC disengages the increased regen indicator (the chevrons on the DIC), but ACC will still use major regen to try and maintain the selected distance behind the car in front, if they brake.

Of course, everything resets when the Clarity's ignition is turned off.
 

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I use the left paddle when I slowing for a red light. If slowing too fast, you can use the right paddle to release; feels like downshifting. If in cruise control, you must cancel that first. Of course adaptive cruise will slow-stop too BUT it doesn’t see the stopped cars until uncomfortably close.
"...BUT it doesn’t see the stopped cars until uncomfortably close."

That distance is selectable. But you're correct, depending on the rapidity of the leading vehicle's braking, the delay in the Clarity's braking can be quite disconcerting. Cars sliding into your lane in front of you is another hazard. ACC seems slow in picking them up. One must always remain vigilant when behind the wheel.

YouTube has a lot of videos showing exceedingly stupid Tesla drivers sitting in the passenger or back seat after engaging "Autopilot" (what an exceedingly disingenuous and dangerous name for this feature). Recently, I saw a video that showed a dog in the driver's seat of a Tesla, and it appeared no humans were onboard. That's some truly sociopathic behavior right there. All for "likes". Shameful.
 

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IIRC, the little chevrons on the DIC will flash to tell you there's not enough room in the battery for the level of regen you've selected.
There's an offramp that I routinely take from a 70 mph freeway, the offramp is long and straight and is on a slight downhill. I guess it's the downhill that does it but I cannot go more than three chevrons, if I try and select four it just flashes and goes back to three. Only after I have slowed to around 45 mph will it do four chevrons.

My assumption is that because of the downhill four chevrons would be providing regen at a higher charge rate than whatever the limit is. Although oddly I can step on the brakes and get what seems to be greater regen than what four chevrons would have provided in that situation. So I'm not 100% sure why it works that way.
 

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Don’t be afraid. You can’t hurt anything. Next time you let your foot off the gas while coasting to a stop, tap on the left paddle one or more times and you’ll understand how it works. I don’t use the right paddle much though.
best use is when going around a curve- you don't have to move your foot to slow down. I always drive in Sport as it is much more enjoyable and don't see milage drop. This also allows you to keep the paddle setting on all the time
 

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There's an offramp that I routinely take from a 70 mph freeway, the offramp is long and straight and is on a slight downhill. I guess it's the downhill that does it but I cannot go more than three chevrons, if I try and select four it just flashes and goes back to three. Only after I have slowed to around 45 mph will it do four chevrons.

My assumption is that because of the downhill four chevrons would be providing regen at a higher charge rate than whatever the limit is. Although oddly I can step on the brakes and get what seems to be greater regen than what four chevrons would have provided in that situation. So I'm not 100% sure why it works that way.
How full were your battery when you were limited to only 3 chevrons? When I have over 90% charge, then it's usually limited to less chevrons and also the engine could kick in (probably without using gas). Normally I keep my charges below 80% so I don't get annoyed by these odd behavior.

Assuming you have lower than 80% charge left, I've seen up to 100A regen at 4 chevron. If you slightly press the brake at this state, it can go up to 200A regen, but the brakes will start to blend in at some point. If you have over 90% battery, even though you press the + to use regen brake only, the mechanical brake will also be used together according to the ODB adapter readout.
 

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There's an offramp that I routinely take from a 70 mph freeway, the offramp is long and straight and is on a slight downhill. I guess it's the downhill that does it but I cannot go more than three chevrons, if I try and select four it just flashes and goes back to three. Only after I have slowed to around 45 mph will it do four chevrons.

My assumption is that because of the downhill four chevrons would be providing regen at a higher charge rate than whatever the limit is. Although oddly I can step on the brakes and get what seems to be greater regen than what four chevrons would have provided in that situation. So I'm not 100% sure why it works that way.
I was on a ~200 mi road trip last Monday, and saw exactly as you describe (noticing it for the first time) on a down-sloped freeway off-ramp. I was in HV mode at ~70 mi/hr and using ACC, prior to slowing. I pulled the left paddle once (which drops you out of ACC), hit the "Sport" button, and pulled the left paddle three or four more times to get to max regen, and coasted quickly down the ramp. The first three chevrons came on solid, but the fourth one flashed several times and went off. The battery SOC was less than 50%, at the time.

Interesting behavior. I'm guessing that the battery system has current limitations somewhere. Where? Who knows....
 

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Anyone else having issues with much lower mileage than expected? I have a new to me 2018 Clarity with around 50K miles. I'm only getting 25 miles per full charge. Anyone else having these issues? Any suggestions would be welcome on how to deal with this. My dealer is being of no help whatsoever.
So, yes, that's what I get with 30K miles. Well I actually get 24. Reasons in order of impact:
1) If the owner applied software update 18-097, for that you get better compatibility with commercial chargers but reduced range. No proof, just my own experience and reading forums since 2018. Short of it, our cars use a battery management system that saves the top and bottom say 10% (we don't really know, but lets say 10). I believe when folks apply the software update, the usable battery is reduced (i.e. top and bottom 15% saved, or whatever). Rationale: You get lower range, but Honda is much less likely to have the large traction battery die inside the warranty period (8-10 years depending on state).
2) Winter vs. summer. Folks will argue about loss percentage. For me personally its always at least 40%, never less. Electric cars get worse range in the cold, but this is highly effected by use of cabin heater. I get 40 in summer (max), average about 32, and at the moment I get 24 EV miles. I also use seat heater, but I prefer the mix of seat heater and cabin heater. So I literally pay for that convenience.
3) If you live on a hill (and I do)-- About 839 feet from the valley floor. Going up and down the hill is a serious impact to range. We can get into those details as to why but one example is you cannot easily charge below 100% which sacrifices any re-gen each down-hill. My strategy in winter is crank the heat on the down-hill as I start out which doesn't decrease estimated EV range because I'm going down hill. Once I hit the valley floor I turn off heat.
4) I've replaced the Michelin super-low friction tires with all seasons (cross climate 2). Good tires, but they decrease range.
5) If you have highway in your commute. The car does better in lower-speed scenarios. I do not, all of my driving is 0-40 mph. (I live in a small town).
6) EV ONLY- (get accurate GOM) If you travel or try to travel exclusively in EV mode. Our clarities start to give folks bogus (and higher than expected readings) when you mix HV and EV driving. But if you lucky like me to have commute that's all EV, all the time, the EV range guesser (GOM) becomes quite accurate. It's unclear to me if others really experience much higher range or if their usage profile includes at least some HV/Gas driving so they actually don't know what they are getting. Anyway, if you go all EV all the time, you won't likely see high numbers of EV range miles estimated or actual. Case in point, I can arbitrarily run up my EV range by hitting HV each up hill home, then turn off on down hill. I can get EV to read 200 if I like, but it doesn't mean anything.

There's many small factors that don't truly matter. Things like if you have a led foot, which folks tend to dramatize but I don't think it impacts EV range much. i.e. put your car in sport mode and you counter with sticky strong regen setting. Running the wipers and headlights, yep it costs something but are you really going to drive without them in rain or darkness? So those don't matter. Roll resistance on pavement, yep, it affects range, nothing you can do about it. Wet winter roads vs summer dry pavement. But again, nothing you can adjust.

Hope these comments help. I've had my Clarity since September of 2018, and I continue to love this car. I might love it less if I had a longer commute, but even when I burn gas, I'm burning much less gas than I used to.

-Dan
 
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