I was actually thinking about it - especially since the "Clarity" and PHEV badges on the trunk are angled to match the body-line and the dealer applied his 3D logo with a level below the PHEV badge - which makes them BOTH look wrong!
Do you heat the badge as a whole or just try to heat the adhesive?
After sitting in the hot Louisiana sun and acid rain for 8 months - and never having all the adhesive from the travel-wrap removed - there are a lot of baked-on lump and stains that I'm hoping the clay will remove.
BTW - I think the Clarity looks best in black but I could not conceive of driving a black car with a black interior in the deep south. Now, if I lived up north... :smile:
I had to have a black interior, which is only available in silver, gray and black. I never owned a black car before, not as bad as I thought for Atlanta (although not quite as hot as Florida) and black seems to hide all of the odd styling, in fact the car actually looks normal
I assume you plan to remove the dealer logo also. I am surprised I even made it all the way home without removing my dealer logo as that is always the first thing to go. It peeled right off, no adhesive residue.
Heat just the side of the badge you are starting on, then as you go along apply heat to the area you are working on. It would work without heat but will go faster with some heat. Takes about ten minutes per badge. Pull the floss towards you as you "saw" to keep the pressure on the back of the badge instead of the paint. I found that if I keep changing which part of the floss is doing the sawing it won't break as quickly.
Don't be tempted to pull the badge off when it gets halfway, it might come off but it might also break. That wouldn't hurt the car but you would have to buy a new badge at resale time. Best to just saw all the way through, when you get right near the end it will usually pull of with a light tug.