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My car was fine this morning so I took my car into Honda today. This is what they found:
Scanned for codes and found code P06AF, monitored freeze frame data and all data looked normal. Test drove vehicle and vehicle drove normal. Checked for updates and found an update available for the battery charger. Updated battery charger software. Recommend customer drive vehicle and see if concern is resolved.
Hopefully this fixes my problem.
I hope you get yours back soon.
Definitely a different problem than mine and worthy of it's own thread. I hope you have success in solving it!
Sorry to seem off topic.It was a matter of seeing this post and thinking it might be related. Hopefully mines good now and I won't need to start a new thread.
 

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New member, I googled the exact error and happened onto this site. Thanks for posting. I have the exact same errors as OP's screen shots. Just started tonight, a block from making it home. I have a base 2018 and no backup vehicle. Will need to call Honda on Monday.

Does anyone know if the Roadside assistance expires with the standard 3 year warranty if I need to tow it there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
My car was fine this morning so I took my car into Honda today. This is what they found:
Scanned for codes and found code P06AF, monitored freeze frame data and all data looked normal. Test drove vehicle and vehicle drove normal. Checked for updates and found an update available for the battery charger. Updated battery charger software. Recommend customer drive vehicle and see if concern is resolved.
Hopefully this fixes my problem.
I hope you get yours back soon.

Sorry to seem off topic.It was a matter of seeing this post and thinking it might be related. Hopefully mines good now and I won't need to start a new thread.
Good to hear it's working now. You may still wish to post a new thread to make it easier for others with your problems to find this information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
New member, I googled the exact error and happened onto this site. Thanks for posting. I have the exact same errors as OP's screen shots. Just started tonight, a block from making it home. I have a base 2018 and no backup vehicle. Will need to call Honda on Monday.

Does anyone know if the Roadside assistance expires with the standard 3 year warranty if I need to tow it there?
Yes, roadside assistance ends at expiration of bumper to bumper warranty. Depending upon the distance to your dealer, you may want to try charging your 12V battery fully and making a run for it in HV mode. Good luck!
 

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Glad to see everything went about smoothly for you. Crossing my fingers I get a knowledgeable technician too.

I’m already off to a bad start though. Towed it to Honda this morning, and the service manager is already preparing me to pay for repairs. Saying it could be any number of other problems, ie alternator. I didn’t even think the clarity has an alternator.

I just had to lemon a Pacifica PHEV last year. Not having much luck with these plugins.

I got my car back on Saturday. The new battery rates at 55 ah and everything is working fine. I am pleased with the resolution, so far. View attachment 891
View attachment 892
 

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Towed it to Honda this morning, and the service manager is already preparing me to pay for repairs. Saying it could be any number of other problems, ie alternator. I didn’t even think the clarity has an alternator.
No alternator, at least not in the traditional sense. There is however a second electric motor (different than the electric motor that drives the wheels). This second electric motor is always connected to the engine and acts as either a starter (obviously to start the engine) or as a generator powered by the engine. However it is not generating 12V current like a standard alternator does, it is generating high voltage current to either power the car or charge the HV battery. It seems highly unlikely this motor is the problem in your case. Seems like the DC-DC converter would be more likely. Or who knows something else completely. But either way at a minimum it should be covered under the 5 yr/ 60,000 mile powertrain warranty. Although if it's the DC-DC converter that might be included in the 8-10 yr / 100-150K battery warranty since in Baldazzer's case they wound up replacing the entire HV battery because of a defective DC-DC converter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Glad to see everything went about smoothly for you. Crossing my fingers I get a knowledgeable technician too.

I’m already off to a bad start though. Towed it to Honda this morning, and the service manager is already preparing me to pay for repairs. Saying it could be any number of other problems, ie alternator. I didn’t even think the clarity has an alternator.

I just had to lemon a Pacifica PHEV last year. Not having much luck with these plugins.
Such is the life of an early adopter. I wouldn't sweat the service manager's comments. Like you said, he's just preparing you for a worst case scenario and isn't all that knowledgeable about the Clarity's inner workings.
 

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After the crap I had to through with Chrysler hybrid techs, it’s good to see the ones at Honda are better trained. Same as Baldazzer, needs a new battery and there’s a minimum 2 week wait to truck it to the east coast.

Such is the life of an early adopter. I wouldn't sweat the service manager's comments. Like you said, he's just preparing you for a worst case scenario and isn't all that knowledgeable about the Clarity's inner workings.
 

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After the crap I had to through with Chrysler hybrid techs, it’s good to see the ones at Honda are better trained. Same as Baldazzer, needs a new battery and there’s a minimum 2 week wait to truck it to the east coast.
Let's hope that it hits the road before the anti-vax trucker convoy, and all the looniness that will bring.
 

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I left my car 2018 clarity sitting in Southern California for about 3 months. Ive got exactly 24,000 miles on the car. When I left there was about 5 bars or the battery and 3/4 tank of gas. When I came back, I couldn't even open my car with the key fob. The car was extremely dead. I connected my 12v battery to another car with jumper cables and let it charge for about 30 minutes or so. When doing this, i got what seemed to be every code in the book and my HV battery was completely drained. 0 bars. When I disconnect the jumper cables from the clarity it won't stay on for more than 30 seconds. The car is so dead, it go into drive even with jumper cables attached. I'm going to have it towed to the dealership tomorrow. I hope it's a similar problem as above where that 8 year HV warranty covers it.
 

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I left my car 2018 clarity sitting in Southern California for about 3 months. Ive got exactly 24,000 miles on the car. When I left there was about 5 bars or the battery and 3/4 tank of gas. When I came back, I couldn't even open my car with the key fob. The car was extremely dead. I connected my 12v battery to another car with jumper cables and let it charge for about 30 minutes or so. When doing this, i got what seemed to be every code in the book and my HV battery was completely drained. 0 bars. When I disconnect the jumper cables from the clarity it won't stay on for more than 30 seconds. The car is so dead, it go into drive even with jumper cables attached. I'm going to have it towed to the dealership tomorrow. I hope it's a similar problem as above where that 8 year HV warranty covers it.
If you’re past 3 years, you get charged for diagnostics by Honda. In your case, you have a dead 12 volt probably. Cheaper to buy a new one and replace it yourself first.
 

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If you’re past 3 years, you get charged for diagnostics by Honda. In your case, you have a dead 12 volt probably. Cheaper to buy a new one and replace it yourself first.
Hi everyone. I just got the same problem. 12V battery dies in just a couple of weeks after I fully charged it. Any idea what might drain it? The high voltage battery had 55% charge and the car is inside the garage not outside in the cold. It was totally dead.
 

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I left my car 2018 clarity sitting in Southern California for about 3 months. Ive got exactly 24,000 miles on the car. When I left there was about 5 bars or the battery and 3/4 tank of gas. When I came back, I couldn't even open my car with the key fob. The car was extremely dead. I connected my 12v battery to another car with jumper cables and let it charge for about 30 minutes or so. When doing this, i got what seemed to be every code in the book and my HV battery was completely drained. 0 bars. When I disconnect the jumper cables from the clarity it won't stay on for more than 30 seconds. The car is so dead, it go into drive even with jumper cables attached. I'm going to have it towed to the dealership tomorrow. I hope it's a similar problem as above where that 8 year HV warranty covers it.
When the jumper cables are connected, instead of trying to turn on the car, try charging. If you plug in the charger and get a steady green light then it should be charging the HV battery. While charging is occurring it will also be charging the 12V battery, so once you see the green light you should be able to remove the jumper cables and the green light should stay on, if it does then let it keep charging.

I recommend don't stop charging and don't try and turn on the car until it has charged for at least two hours, because every time you turn on the car there is a momentary drain on the 12V battery while the HV system is being activated. So it's better to let the 12V battery get fully charged before trying to turn on the car. In your case the 12V is completely depleted so that's why I recommend two hours to try and get it back to full, assuming that the 12V battery will accept a charge and is not completely dead, but the only way to know is to try charging it for a couple of hours. And either way during those two hours you will be charging your HV battery so it's not a waste of time.

While it's charging you can monitor the SOC using the HondaLink app. Note that the app only updates SOC at intervals of 15 percent, even if you press refresh on the app screen you will notice that the "Last updated at" time does not change and neither does the SOC. But there is a trick to get the charge status to update, go into Schedule Charge and set a timer schedule. Doesn't matter what schedule you set up as the schedule won't take effect while the car is already charging. But when you save the schedule, then on the main screen the "Last Updated at" time should now be the current time, although it sometimes take a couple of minutes to display it, if you don't want to wait this is one time that Refresh is actually useful. To later check the SOC again, go into Schedule Charge, press Modify Schedule, on the next screen you don't need to change the charge times, just press the check mark to accept the schedule, after the schedule is accepted press X to go back to the main screen and it should show updated SOC and current time (if not press Refresh).

If you can't get the HondaLink app to work, an alternative to check the SOC is to get into the car while it is still charging and press the power button twice, don't bother pressing the brake pedal as the car won't start while you are charging. This should bring up the main display and you can check the HV battery bars. As long as you do this while the car is still charging it won't put a drain on the 12V battery.

As for the error messages you are seeing, if they are about ABS and TPMS etc then that is normal messages to see whenever 12V power is lost even momentarily. Those messages won't go away until you have driven about a mile, so until you get fully charged and are able to drive the car you will continue to see those messages.

If after two hours of charging you still can't get the car into READY mode and into D, then your next step would be to replace the 12V battery and hopefully that fixes it. Although as a reminder even with a new 12V battery you will still see the ABS, TPMS type of warning messages for the first mile of driving.
 

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I left my car 2018 clarity sitting in Southern California for about 3 months. Ive got exactly 24,000 miles on the car. When I left there was about 5 bars or the battery and 3/4 tank of gas. When I came back, I couldn't even open my car with the key fob. The car was extremely dead. I connected my 12v battery to another car with jumper cables and let it charge for about 30 minutes or so. When doing this, i got what seemed to be every code in the book and my HV battery was completely drained. 0 bars. When I disconnect the jumper cables from the clarity it won't stay on for more than 30 seconds. The car is so dead, it go into drive even with jumper cables attached. I'm going to have it towed to the dealership tomorrow. I hope it's a similar problem as above where that 8 year HV warranty covers it.
Anytime a 12 volt battery is located inside the vehicle, it is gel cell battery not a wet cell battery. A gel cell battery requires a special charger, as the charge is going thru a gel and in order for the battery to charge, the charge has to be more of a trickle charge. You cannot use jumper cables or a regular battery charger as doing so will ruin the gel cell battery.
Your hybrid battery pack is not gel, it is a dry cell. The hybrid battery pack also requires a special charger for charging.

You are not to put a wet cell battery inside a vehicle. If there is a vehicle accident or if the battery were to leak fluid for any reason, the fluid could potentially do a lot of harm to those inside the vehicle.

A good automotive book to read is "A Guide To Vehicle Diagnostics" written by Cascanet and Schnell.
 

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You cannot use jumper cables or a regular battery charger as doing so will ruin the gel cell battery.

A good automotive book to read is "A Guide To Vehicle Diagnostics" written by Cascanet and Schnell.
An even better book to read is the owner's manual. Clarity has a normal wet cell battery located in the engine compartment. The screenshot below is from the Clarity owner's manual where it describes the jump starting procedure for the Clarity.
Font Parallel Art Paper Line art
 

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Hi everyone. I fully charged my 12V battery After I found it dead. Any suggestions how to bring back to life my screen? It tells me to push and hold the ON button for more than 2 seconds and goes blank. Dashboard tells me to drive slow and all kinds of warning lights are on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Hi everyone. I fully charged my 12V battery After I found it dead. Any suggestions how to bring back to life my screen? It tells me to push and hold the ON button for more than 2 seconds and goes blank. Dashboard tells me to drive slow and all kinds of warning lights are on.
Did you check voltage on the 12V battery to verify it is charged?
 
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