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After 40,000 miles on my '18 PHEV, I got a A17 Maintenance Minder alert.

A17 is for oil change, tire rotation, and brake fluid replacement.

Took her into my trusted mechanic and they did the oil change and tire rotation but skipped on the brake fluid.
When I asked why they skipped the brake fluid replacement, they said the fluid was tested and found no water and no contaminants.
They said the fluid is more than new enough that it will go another year or two.
Brake pads were at 90% (like new) and there was no adjustment needed.

They reset the MM and off I went.

Perhaps the brake fluid needed no replacement due to the lack of brakes I use ?
Primarily use the paddles to shift down a lot.
 

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After 40,000 miles on my '18 PHEV, I got a A17 Maintenance Minder alert.

A17 is for oil change, tire rotation, and brake fluid replacement.

Took her into my trusted mechanic and they did the oil change and tire rotation but skipped on the brake fluid.
When I asked why they skipped the brake fluid replacement, they said the fluid was tested and found no water and no contaminants.
They said the fluid is more than new enough that it will go another year or two.
Brake pads were at 90% (like new) and there was no adjustment needed.

They reset the MM and off I went.

Perhaps the brake fluid needed no replacement due to the lack of brakes I use ?
Primarily use the paddles to shift down a lot.
I think that’s probably a fair assessment. Water works it’s way into the system by sneaking in around the piston seals when they move in and out. If they move less I would think you’d be less prone to getting water into the system.
 

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I've strongly suspected the maintenance minder is designed to keep dealership service departments busy. Why should I change the oil annually when new synthetic oils can easily go 15,000 or more miles and up to two years between changes? Why the brake service reminder - other manufacturers go five years before they recommend checking the brake fluid. I'm surprised it didn't trigger a cooling system replacement as well.
 

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2018 PHEV Touring Atlanta, GA
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After 40,000 miles on my '18 PHEV, I got a A17 Maintenance Minder alert.

A17 is for oil change, tire rotation, and brake fluid replacement.

Took her into my trusted mechanic and they did the oil change and tire rotation but skipped on the brake fluid.
When I asked why they skipped the brake fluid replacement, they said the fluid was tested and found no water and no contaminants.
They said the fluid is more than new enough that it will go another year or two.
Brake pads were at 90% (like new) and there was no adjustment needed.

They reset the MM and off I went.

Perhaps the brake fluid needed no replacement due to the lack of brakes I use ?
Primarily use the paddles to shift down a lot.
Brake fluid in maintenance minder is based on the calendar not miles, the message pops up exactly three years after the car was put in service. Do you remember what day you first saw the message? It should have been the three year anniversary date of when you took delivery of your Clarity. They apparently do something at the dealership to start the minder clock "ticking" when you take delivery.

Good to hear that the fluid checked out okay. Everything that I have read says that three years is usually way too early to change brake fluid.
 

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Another forum member Clarity_Newbie previously did some research on what triggers the maintenance minder for the various items. I added my experience to theirs in a recent thread about the coolant schedule:

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone for your insights.
Very good point about keeping the dealer service dept busy.
Guess it was a good way to generate revenue had I taken it to a Honda dealer.

I am so blessed with finding my independent mechanic from 10 years ago - he has never tried to oversell anything.
Matter of fact, he will tell you how long you "really" have to do maintenance...

I found them by accident when I needed to get my Land Rover serviced as the dealer wanted $550 for an oil change while my independent charged $139 for the same oil and filter.
(They are German trained mechanics - mostly for Mercedes, BMW, Audi)
 

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I still have my one-man break bleeder kit from the 1980s. It works great, but I still get my wife to pump the pedal the last time before tightening the bleeder valve.
 

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2021 PHEV Touring HB, CA
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I still have my one-man break bleeder kit from the 1980s. It works great, but I still get my wife to pump the pedal the last time before tightening the bleeder valve.
I'm assuming you're writing about the kit with three feet of clear aquarium tubing and a little plastic bottle? I bought one at Chief Auto Supply (remember them?), and used it on my 1960 Ford Falcon. Changing the shoes on that thing was a real hassle, compared to disc brakes. Adjusting them was the real pain in the patootie, though. I've still got the adjustment tool. (It's good for other things, too.)
 

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The newer ones, (I kept losing my older kits) have a one way flow valve so the brake fluid does not flow backwards. I still suspect you risk air going in from the loosened bleeder screw....
 

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The newer ones, (I kept losing my older kits) have a one way flow valve so the brake fluid does not flow backwards. I still suspect you risk air going in from the loosened bleeder screw....
That's what the bottle was for. Its pickup tube was below the level of brake fluid, so air couldn't re-enter through the bleeder screw. I always started the bleeding process with the little bottle about 25% full of fresh brake fluid.
 

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That's what the bottle was for. Its pickup tube was below the level of brake fluid, so air couldn't re-enter through the bleeder screw. I always started the bleeding process with the little bottle about 25% full of fresh brake fluid.
I've had instances where I loosened the bleeder screw too much, so much that air could get past the threads between the screw and caliper...
 

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We got the 7 maintenance minder a while back and I got my son to help me do a 2 man brake bleed on our '18:


Get repair/service info here (SIS):

Thanks for the link to the other discussion. I have some questions about your notes there:

You said, "1st round is with vehicle ON"

In the Clarity owners manual, ON refers to the mode where the power button is pressed twice without pressing the brake pedal. Is that what you were referring to or did you mean READY mode?

I didn't understand what was meant when you said:

"1st round is noted as between tandem motor cylinder and brake caliper

2nd round is between pedal feel simulator and brake caliper"

I haven't had a chance to look, but what is between those items and what do you do there? Are those two separate places to add replacement brake fluid while draining at the calipers?

Also any idea why you can't open the door for three minutes after turning off the car prior to round 2? What happens if your assistant accidentally opens the door too early, do you have to do round 1 all over again? Or do you just have to turn the car on and off again and wait another three minutes.

After three minutes is it okay to open the door prior to starting round 2?

I realize you may not have answers to all of these questions.
 

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It's the middle of the night and I'm laying in "bed", a little tired to get up and tinker with my ancient computer which takes forever just to wake up...

I read through both posts. 1st round is brake pedal Power button ON, so you can shift/press D and drive, that ON. (I note "engine on" in the 2nd post).

I remember it saying not to open the door after three minutes. I was worried the translation from Japanese to English may have lost some meaning, so from turning the car OFF (with door closed when we turned it off) we did not dare open the driver, (nor any other), door until I finished all four wheels.

I can't say with firm understanding why two rounds are necessary. I can say a few things and a hunch:

Instructions note when depressing the brake pedal a few times to build pressure, to do so "slowly". While my son is actually really bright, (2nd year college at 16), he seemed to have trouble with the slowly part. (I didn't note it in the posts because it was a puzzle to me why it failed to push out fluid at times. I definitely reminded him of the "slowly" more than once).

So we are "luckily" not new to the hybrid/PHEV world. First one is a '12 Toyota Prius v, 2nd '13 Ford C-MAX Energi. I know when you open the driver door on the Prius v you will immediately hear a pumping sound. That sound is actually the brake system filling some sort of accumulator. (I guess hybrids because they run with ICE off, that this accumulator system is somehow necessary). So if you open the driver door you may activate this filling (follows is my hunch) mixing the clean brake fluid you just flushed in with the old that is still there...

EDIT-. I reread your post, (sorry not full night's sleep yet), the two rounds of bleeding seemed explanatory. There is nothing to do in between. The first round accomplishes bleeding between tandem motor and caliper, and the second round accomplishes bleeding between the pedal feel simulator and brake caliper...
 

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Thanks, and by the way no rush answering these questions, take your time. I don't think any of us will be changing our brake fluid this week! But it's good information to have for the future.

I think I get the gist of it now, from a procedural standpoint it's simply put the car in READY mode and then bleed all four wheels using the normal brake bleeding process. Although the order of wheels seems different than usual but no problem there. After bleeding all four wheels, turn off the car (but don't open the door), wait at least three minutes and then bleed all four wheels again. I realize now that the part about "between" master cylinder and caliper and between brake simulator and caliper was provided just as background information for anyone who is curious as to why the bleeding has to be done twice.

If I understand correctly, possibly the door can be opened after round 1, as long as you wait three minutes after turning the car off. But apparently since we aren't sure it might be safer to not open the door until round 2 is completed also.

(I note "engine on" in the 2nd post).
Glad you brought that up as that is another thing that I wasn't clear on. According to the owners manual there are three modes the car can be in:

ACCESSORY - Press the power button once without pressing the brake pedal.
Radio and infotainment works, that's about it. Oh yeah the USB ports and 12V socket are powered up also,

ON - Press the power button again without pressing the brake pedal.
Dashboard is powered on, power windows work, fan is available but no AC or heat other than seat heating.

It should be noted that in both of the above two modes all power is draining from the 12V battery, so ACCESSORY and ON modes should only be used for a limited time.

READY - Press the power button while pressing the brake pedal. The HV system is powered up, AC and heat are available, as well as charging of the 12V battery, and the car can be driven.

Understandably we tend to think of the car being turned "on" when we are going to drive it. In your post you capitalized it as ON which normally refers to ON mode, that's why I just wanted to make sure which mode you were referring to, I think you have confirmed that READY mode is used for round 1.

However the engine running should have nothing to do with this, in fact I would not expect the engine to come on at all during this procedure. So I take it that by "engine on" that is just another way that you are referring to being in READY mode, correct? The way you explained things was clear and made sense, but because of the inherent complication of hybrids and terminology related to their modes I just like to make sure that I am clear exactly what mode is being talked about, which I think I am now. Thanks again.
 

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I just opened the document and it just says "ON mode".... To push brake pedal slowly during this.

It does not warn of battery drain. It does note a CEL may come on because of being "ON". I assumed it means READY to drive....
 

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I just opened the document and it just says "ON mode".... To push brake pedal slowly during this.

It does not warn of battery drain. It does note a CEL may come on because of being "ON". I assumed it means READY to drive....
I just remembered that you said that you translated the instructions from Japanese to English. In a Honda document written in English, the term ON Mode, with ON capitalized is not the same as READY mode. I guess you are are saying that the word that you are looking at in Japanese seems to be the word for "on", and that it is capitalized (sorry I am not familiar with how Japanese writing works), and that you think it likely refers to READY mode. I suppose that's possible, the best way to confirm this is if you can find a Japanese version of the Honda owner's manual and find the section where it explains ACCESSORY, ON and READY modes and see what words are used for those three modes.
 

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The Honda TechInfo instructions are in English. It's relatively inexpensive to subscribe and find the documents. Unfortunately it's not as clear/defined as the Toyota equivalent as I'm used to...

EDIT- I downloaded the document back in 2018. Maybe they've updated it for clarity by now.....
 

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BTW-. We have a Cadillac CTS (Gen 2) where the factory service manual notes an X pattern for brake bleed, so I just follow....
 
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