Amps are controlled by the source. You can't put more through the cord than are coming into it. Honda recommends a dedicated 50amp circuit for 120v. It is true, more amps will make for faster charging.
Honda recommends a
15 amp circuit for the 12 amp EVSE included with the car.
Electric codes classify EV charging as "continuous duty" which means the circuit must be capable of 125% of the load pulled by charging. You can also calculate the maximum load a circuit will support by multiplying the circuit rating by .8 (80%). The same rule applies no matter the voltage (120, 240, etc).
Some EV's default to charging at 8 amps when using 120V (BMW i3, Chevy Bolt, i.e.). Very often the outlet in your garage is not "dedicated" (there are usually other outlets on the same circuit - with our without devices plugged into them).
And the amps are controlled by both the car and the EVSE (charge cord) and not the rating of the circuit. It is very important to match the EVSE to the circuit it is being connected to (some EVSE's are adjustable).
The EVSE will send a signal to the car "advertising" how many amps it has available. The car (which has the actual charger built in) the controls the charge session. The amps drawn will vary based on a number of factors (and will change during the charge session) but won't exceed the maximum "advertised" by the EVSE. Temperature and state of charge are two factors that will cause the draw and charge rate to drop. Battery charging "tapers" as the battery gets full, and cold temps will slow the charging process.
14 hours for a full charge is not alarming in cooler temps
12A @ 120V = 1.44 kW
10 hours @ 1.44 kW would put 14.4 kWh into the battery (on paper). Charging is not 100% efficient, so some of that is lost to heat, and the charge rate will taper at the end even if temps are ideal.