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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
This was using Pennzoil 0w16 full synthetic. 1/2 bottle of Moly EP and 1/2 bottle of Ceratec.

oil change was with Amsoil 0w16 and the same additives listed above. I pull a sample at at estimated 10,000 miles of engine use.

Typically drive about 1/2 of my stances on HV. So very few short EV trips. I also use Econ mode and don’t kick in the ICE on acceleration. On long road trips I will select HV after 50% battery use. Then reset HV any time the clutch is disengaged to higher rpm charging.
 

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Is there any reason you're using 0W/16 and not the 0W/20 as listed in the full owners manual?
 

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Thank you for sharing! Please don't take this the wrong way but just a heads up to other owners who might consider switching, per Pennzoil:

Why is a GF-6B standard necessary?

ILSAC has always tried to make its standards “evergreen,” which means they are backward-compatible. Thus, when a new standard is activated, the previous standard becomes obsolete because the latest standard meets the needs of both new and prior engine technologies. However, the new 0W-16 viscosity grade has not been specified for most older engines, as most older engines are not equipped to operate with a lubricant at such a low viscosity.

For this reason, ILSAC determined the need for an ILSAC GF-6A standard, which is backward-compatible, and an ILSAC GF-6B standard, which is ONLY used for SAE 0W-16. Oils meeting the GF-6B standard will NOT be backward-compatible unless specified by an OEM, and this distinction will be noted clearly on eligible Pennzoil Platinum motor oil labels.
 

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I get my Mobil-1 0W-20 in 5 qt containers at Wal-Mart. Pretty cheap. about $26.00 now. Much cheaper than the $8 per qt. they charge. I buy my oil filers in packs of 10 from Amazon. I am lucky this time around. Both Hondas and my Frontier 4x4 use the same filter. Both Hondas use 0w-20. Makes it easy to keep a supply in the garage. I have almost 40,000 on the Clarity (not quite 2 years old) and change the oil pretty much at 5,000 mile intervals (longer if I know I have been mostly electric in that time frame). I haven't seen the 0w-16 at the stores yet (or just haven't noticed).
 

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Like obermd, I also wonder what the reason is for using this slightly lower viscosity oil?
Like obermd, I also wonder what the reason is for using this slightly lower viscosity oil?
The reason is to save gasoline and the pollution it produces. Engines with much tighter tolerances burn less oil, reducing pollution. Tighter tolerances need thinner oil to get into the tighter spots.
 

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I'm not sure I'd change the viscosity of the oil I'm using. Thinner oil may not provide sufficient lubrication to this engine. After your power train warranty expires all bets are off but it's just not worth the risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm not sure I'd change the viscosity of the oil I'm using. Thinner oil may not provide sufficient lubrication to this engine. After your power train warranty expires all bets are off but it's just not worth the risk.
Used oil sample shows zero issues.

Plenty of new cars used 0w16 oil. GM 1500 model truck with a turbo diesel used 5w20 oil.
 

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Not 100% sure it was translated over from Japanese to English properly, but if that’s accurate I believe (and could be wrong) that either 0W-16 or 0W-20 can be used for the full range of ambient temperatures.

What has got me “turned off” to the use of 0W-16 is that you’ve added two oil supplements (pardon my lack of better wording) to the oil. The total volume is not large so that is a more significant percentage. I still suspect that your sample averages are the only data points that Blackstone has on 0W-16 + 1/2 Moly EP + 1/2 Ceratec.
 

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