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2002 08-24-2020 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeJoe (Post 8899)
Having a smaller breaker to protect the appliance isn’t uncommon with larger appliances on a single run. Your air conditioner is a good example. Older air conditioners used a bunch of energy and had large wires, the newer ones us less energy and specifically spec the max sized breaker for the circuit it is running. Most cases this is less than the older unit. No electrician will run a smaller wire, you just reduce the breaker size.

A little different though because the AC unit is hard wired into the circuit, so the only relevant items are the wires and the AC unit itself. So no problem installing whatever breaker size you want that works with the wiring and of course the appliance itself. But when there is a receptacle involved it becomes a communication issue. A 14-50 outlet effectively announces to the world that this circuit is four-wire 50 amps. Sure there is no real harm if the circuit is only 20 amps, worst case someone unknowingly plugs in a higher power device and trips the circuit breaker, which by the way will make it harder for someone to find the breaker since they will be looking for 50 amp. Of course I realize you will have complete control over what gets plugged into the outlet, and I'm sure you will upgrade the breaker when you sell the house so that it matches the outlet. But codes don't make all of those assumptions. You seem to know what you are doing, and you feel it will actually be a safer installation so I'm not going to challenge or question, but on forums like this I think it's always good to have the discussion, and anyways it's interesting.

obermd 08-24-2020 08:28 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's my setup. It's a four strand 10 gauge wire - single shot from the breaker with no intermediate junction boxes. The outlet box is weather resistant and the outlet is a hospital grade 6-20R. The breaker is also 20 amps. The Duosida adapter is draped over the top of the outlet box and isn't plugged in.

If you put a 20 amp breaker on the circuit put a 20 amp outlet. The outlet and breaker need to match. Personally, I'd go ahead and install a 50 amp circuit and get a Clipper Creek HCS-40 or HCS-50 EVSE. The Clarity PHEV has a 6.6KW charger and a 16 amp (continuous draw) won't charge the car as fast as a 32 amp continuous draw. Clipper Creek numbers their EVSEs based on the circuit amperage so the HCS-40 will provide 32 amps continuous draw. Don't go above 80% of the cicruit rating for an EVSE.

Also, put the ground receptacle at the top - this isn't required by code in most places but is good practice so if the plug comes loose and something falls on the bare metal there's no current or voltage.

The diagram in your post points out a really good item - Keep the line from the outlet to the EVSE straight if possible. I was unable to do this in my installation so I made sure the EVSE was close enough the plug wouldn't be under mechanical stress.

Trolle 08-24-2020 08:37 PM

Also you should use a GFCI circuit breaker for that 20A receptacle?

2002 08-24-2020 11:33 PM

No extra charge for all of the unsolicited advice by the way, since all you asked about was where to place the outlet :)

If you really want to get creative some people install (or make) a swing arm so the cable and plug are against the wall when not in use, and the cable is never on the floor when charging. Actually even if you don't plan on anything that elaborate you may want to wait until you have been charging for a couple of weeks with the level 1 EVSE and try out different strategies, using a heavy duty extension cord if needed to simulate potential locations for the level 2 EVSE.

obermd 08-24-2020 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trolle (Post 8909)
Also you should use a GFCI circuit breaker for that 20A receptacle?

EVSEs have GFCI circuits in them. If the only outlet on the circuit is for the EVSE it's not necessary.

Trolle 08-25-2020 05:05 PM

I only mentioned it because I read this:

"GFCI protection is required for 125-volt to 250-volt receptacles supplied by single-phase branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to the ground. GFCI receptacles are required in bathrooms, garages, crawl spaces, basements, laundry rooms and areas where a water source is present."

I understand you said the EVSE has a GFCI built in, however if it is a common type receptacle you could then plug another appliance that does not have that feature.

I also see the code mentions RV receptacles does not need a GFCI breaker because they are considered to be a feeder to the RV that has it's own panel and protection. This exception is only mentioned for RVs for 30 and 50 Amp receptacles


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