30a 125/250v - Page 3 - 2018 Honda Clarity Forum
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-01-2020, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Losthuy View Post
Do you think if I go with the zencar 10-30 I can just plug it in without installing a new sub panel? I know your not an electrician, but I appreciate your feedback.
Sure seems like the simplest solution. Based on what you are describing there should be no reason why it wouldn't work and in fact sounds exactly like what @60Hertz did with a similar setup using an existing dryer outlet.
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Losthuy View Post
Do you think if I go with the zencar 10-30 I can just plug it in without installing a new sub panel? I know your not an electrician, but I appreciate your feedback.
I'm a little confused as you posted that the electrician suggested installing a new circuit, but you did not mention the need for a new subpanel. If you post a photo of your panel, it would go a long way in helping gauge what is and is not required.
A 16A EVSE (or even 24A) with a 10-30p should plug into your existing circuit just fine with no issues. The 26A Mustart requires a 40A circuit according to NEC 625 (actually 32.5, but 30 is too small and the next step up is 40). Code does not allow a 30A outlet on a 40A breaker (and doubtful your existing wire gauge is sufficient for 40A anyway).




Gary

2018 Clarity Electric (Vortex Blue)
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 2002 View Post
Wouldn't that be true with any 240V cable?
Yes, that's true.... but if you don't already have a Level 2 evse, going with the OEM unit will save you at least $250.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mowcowbell View Post
Yes, that's true.... but if you don't already have a Level 2 evse, going with the OEM unit will save you at least $250.
I have seen people say preconditioning with Level 1 doesn't work unless the battery is full but that's not true, I just did a scheduled climate at 77% SOC and it worked. Now what I can't do is precondition and charge at the same time, but for me that never happens anyway I do my charging overnight on a schedule because I have a time of use rate plan. But yes if I was charging all the way up to my departure, I would have to stop charging in order to precondition, but at least it would maintain SOC where it was when I stopped charging because climate will be running off of the 120V. But for me I normally have my battery charged up to where I want it by the time I am ready to precondition.
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 06:46 PM
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I have seen people say preconditioning with Level 1 doesn't work unless the battery is full but that's not true, I just did a scheduled climate at 77% SOC and it worked. Now what I can't do is precondition and charge at the same time, but for me that never happens anyway I do my charging overnight on a schedule because I have a time of use rate plan. But yes if I was charging all the way up to my departure, I would have to stop charging in order to precondition, but at least it would maintain SOC where it was when I stopped charging because climate will be running off of the 120V. But for me I normally have my battery charged up to where I want it by the time I am ready to precondition.
Sorry, I wasn't very clear. What I meant was you can use the Honda OEM unit on 240v. I converted a NEMA 6-20 extension cord by removing the receptacle end and replacing it with a 5-20 receptacle. It will charge a empty battery in ~5.5 hours. I've used mine in this manner numerous times without any problems.
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Did you end needing to add a seperate subpanel or anything extra from an electrician once you used the zencar?
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mowcowbell View Post
another advantage of .... 240v .... is you gain the benefit of being able to remotely heat/cool the vehicle no matter the current battery charge state.
Sorry I was probably the one not being clear, I was actually replying to this post. In your post you said that with 240V you can "remotely heat/cool the vehicle no matter the current battery charge state" which I interpreted as the common belief that when plugged in with 120V you cannot use scheduled climate unless the battery is full or near full. Maybe that is not what you meant, but what I was pointing out is that as far as I know the only difference with 240V is that you can run remote climate and charge at the same time, whereas with 120V you can only do one or the other at a time.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I think I'll just return the mustart and go with the zencar since it's cheaper and I don't need anything addtional installed. I just want to charge it overnight as opposed to charging at work every day then at home too. Breaker is below.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Losthuy View Post
Thanks! I think I'll just return the mustart and go with the zencar since it's cheaper and I don't need anything addtional installed. I just want to charge it overnight as opposed to charging at work every day then at home too. Breaker is below.
I tried zooming in on the photo but couldn't see the numbers on all of the breakers, maybe you can take a look at the panel and confirm:

A/C ?-? (240V)
Range 40-40 (240V)
Dryer 30-30 (240V)
20
20
20
20
20
20
20
15
15
15
?
?
?
20
20
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-09-2020, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice. I got the zencar few days ago, made no changes and have been getting a full charge from 0 in 4hrs. Apprecitate all the suggestions and info!
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